I have a Dodge half ton with the V8 and am having severe overheating issues. I have replaced the thermostat the water pump the radiator and even the heater core. It gets really hot and I have to shut it off around 230degrees. If I don't it will just keep climbing. When I pop the hood it sounds like the water is boiling. I have taken it to a reputable local shop with no success. I am afraid to drive it much or get too far from home. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. HELP!!!
Does the Electric Fan come on? If so, at about what temp? If too late, the temp can continue to climb. The replacement radiators may be too small for the application. With a Heat gun, the temp should be 15degree difference, from top to bottom hose, of the radiator, with the fan on. A bad radiator cap, may not hold enough pressure, to keep it from boiling. If the coolent recovery system is not working right, the radiator can be low, on Antifreeze, and run hot.
It doesn't have an electric fan. It has a clutch fan. As for exhaust it has a fairly free flowing exhaust with glass packs and has no signs of restriction. I don't have a temp gun but plan on getting one. The new rad I put in it is actually bigger than factory. I think its for a diesel and is larger. I was told to use that one by the rad shop. I also drilled a few holes in the thermostat to remove bubbles if I had any. As for timing I am not sure if off any. Cant seem to get a consistent answer as to what its supposed to be. Also, no oil in water and no water in oil. Thanks for all ur help. Will double check all those ideas to be sure. Oh, its fuel injection not carbureted.
If it has a bad head gasket, or cracked head, it would, 1. Use a lot of Antifreeze 2. Yes, have air in the cooling system, and fill up the recovery system 3. May have white smoke in the exhaust 4. The temp guage would move a lot, as it would read liquid, one moment, and air the next. There is a kit to put pressure in the radiator. This may not tell where the leak is, just if there is one, as it would not hold pressure. A compression test can find a weak cylinder. A leak down test can find a weak cylinder. An additive can seal a leak, but may not help, if the head is cracked. If the cooling system holds pressure, it should not boil at 230F or even 260F.
I think I now know, what they were talking about. If you put pressure on the cooling system, say 10psi, and it goes up fast, when the motor is started, when still cold, it could mean a bad head gasket, or cracked head.
I am still fighting the overheating problem. Yesterday I popped off the rad cap and started it and had to keep adding fluid. It also kept having small bubbles come up and fluid go down. It wasn't blowing white smoke though. Is this a blown head gasket etc? Don't want to tear into the motor if I don't have to. Any ideas? Thank you for ur help. I love this truck and want to get it back up and running. It runs super strong just gets hot. Thanks again for your help. My local O'Reillys didn't have that kit that was mentioned
Will a Comp or Leakdown test show which cylinder is bad? A Magazine article said that if you are building a smallblock Mopar, do not use late model, salvage yard heads, as most of them are cracked. If they are cracked, the crack may close up, when cold, and not show up on a comp, or leakdown test. A bad head gasket, should show up. So, hookup a pressure tester to the Radiator, and warm up the motor, and see if it holds pressure, after the engine is stopped. Be careful, as the pressure may go too high.